June 2005 · Middle East Trip
David & Noel Coory's Journey to Egypt
A travel diary documenting the first leg of an epic Middle East
adventure — Israel and Jordan to Egypt
Israel
First Look
Overall Impressions of Egypt
- Ancient wonders standing proudly through millennia.
- Rich history visible in everyday surroundings.
- Chaotic traffic but surprisingly organized movement.
- Warm hospitality despite cultural differences.
- Fascinating blend of old and new.
- Deeply rooted traditions shape daily life.
- Magnificent pyramids inspire awe and curiosity.
- Vibrant street life full of energy.
- Intense desert heat dominates experiences.
- Strong religious and cultural identity.
- Colorful markets and persistent local vendors.
- Extraordinary archaeological treasures everywhere.
- Contrasts between luxury and simplicity.
- Nile River sustains life amid desert.
- Friendly guides enhance cultural understanding.
- Unique architecture reflects ancient civilization.
- Memorable sights at every turn.
- Tourist-focused economy visible throughout.
- Authentic local experiences beyond attractions.
- A captivating and unforgettable destination.
EXPLORING ZAMALEK
A Final Walk Along The Nile
Hot muggy night last night, with our useless air conditioner clattering and vibrating all night long. I estimate it’s only working to 10% of capacity. We slept reasonably well nevertheless.
They have a bidet in the toilet here. Try it out for the first time in my life.
We have an early breakfast on the 11th floor restaurant of our hotel. Real milk and cornflakes, but no fruit to have with the yoghurt.
Noel and I then pack 1½ litres of water and leave the hotel for a long and memorable walk around Cairo. This is our last day in Egypt. We fly out to Germany tonight
The outside temperature this early in the morning is actually nice and mild at first.
We first explore our island in the middle of the Nile. We walk to the river to get our bearings. The flow of water is northward so we now know which bridge to cross to get to a downtown part of Cairo. I make a mental note to buy a small but robust compass to aid in orientation when exploring strange cities.
Most of the streets are narrow and run at all angles on this island called Zamalek. Very easy to get lost. So we decide to keep the river in view. There are many tall trees growing on this island. Some of them on the banks of the Nile are huge, no doubt due to having their roots nourished by the river.
Much of Zamalek Island appears to be the classy part of Cairo, crammed with apartments and foreign embassy’s. Road traffic is very busy. We walk past men fishing in the river, but they do not seem to be catching anything. We see clumps of weed floating down the Nile.
There are nice little parks by the river side. On the far side of the Nile we can see houseboats lining the bank. One of the woman beggars we saw last night, still carrying a baby, catches up with us again. I feel sorry for her, being forced into such a demeaning activity, but we do not give her anything.
Noel is amazed to come across a car badged an American Chevrolet, but identical to an Australian Holden Commodore. As we walk further along the riverbank we pass a police station. Policemen are doing weight training outside in the courtyard in the early morning.
The air is very hazy, probably with pollution. In the photo below, the building that is sticking up in the background is actually quite close, but looks to be far in the distance because of the pollution in the air.
“This is our last day in Egypt.”
CROSSING INTO CENTRAL CAIRO
Traffic, Noise And The Mighty Nile
We start to cross the Sixth of October bridge, which spans half the Nile, into central Cairo. This bridge is very busy with traffic, five lanes abreast. No lane markings (why waste paint?). The bridge commemorates the 1974 Arab Israeli war.
We stop and watch two boys play soccer down on a field below. They see us watching and begin to show off for us. We walk a little further and see a taxi stand below, all black and white cabs, mostly 1970’s era Peugeot 504’s. These popular cars are still made new today in Africa. These cars are everywhere in Cairo.
We are now crossing over the river. As we look down we are surprised how shallow this part of the Nile is. There are some deeper channels, but it must be difficult for the big cruise boats such as we see moored below, to navigate.
As we leave the river and bridge and walk into the city centre, the traffic noise and traffic levels become quite horrendous. Cairo is a huge city of 17 million people. I make a brief video using my camera of the traffic to give you some idea of the noise.
Most of the streets here are narrow and congested, but there are many smallish trees planted which makes quite a difference. The constant horn tooting reminds us of Beirut.
“As we leave the river and bridge and walk into the city centre, the traffic noise and traffic levels become quite horrendous.”
AN UNEXPECTED DETOUR
Following A Stranger Through Cairo’s Back Alleys
We stop and look at a street road map and a young Arab man with bad teeth, but good English shows us on the map where we are. He tells us he is visiting from Australia and has an Australian wife. The words don’t ring true, but we are not overly suspicious. Then he tells us he is an artist and wants to give us his business card. But the catch is we have to follow him to the place where he works. We suspect a con, but decide to follow him anyway. We may see some local colour.
He leads us down a dingy alley, and then through some tunnel-like grotty winding passage ways, ending up at a locked iron gate. An old man passes a key through and our ‘artist’ unlocks it and ushers us through. Then he leads us into a room full of papyrus paintings and offers us a drink.
We now know for sure this is a con. Nevertheless, some of the large paintings look very good indeed, and appear to be genuine, hand-painted papyrus. Also the brown tones of some of them would blend with both Noel and my home decor very well.
“We now know for sure this is a con.”
BARGAINING IN CAIRO
A Deal, A Dispute, And Two Papyrus Paintings
The ‘artist’ starts to negotiate with us. He wants £130 Egyptian pounds each for the large paintings, which is about US$25. I agree to buy one for US$10. He tells me that is way below the cost of producing them. Finally we agreed on US$13. However there is some bother finding change for a US$20 note. Finally I say I will pay US$20 for two large paintings, which is going back to my originally quote of US$10 each.
The ‘artist’ reluctantly agrees to this. But after doing so, the old man who had been away looking for change, comes back into the room. He gets very angry with the ‘artist’ when he hears what he has agreed to and wants to cancel the deal. The old man says to us, “He don’t know prices.”
Finally after much arguing between the old man and the ‘artist’, who is looking quite upset, the old man gives in and rolls up the paintings and wraps them for us. As we leave, the ‘artist’ asks us for baksheesh for obtaining such a good deal and putting up with his uncle’s anger. We refuse.
“Finally after much arguing between the old man and the ‘artist’, who is looking quite upset, the old man gives in and rolls up the paintings and wraps them for us.”
AN UNEXPECTED ACT OF KINDNESS
Discovering Local Flavours In Cairo
Soon we are back out on the noisy, busy Cairo streets again. We stop for a freshly squeezed fruit juice. I point to what I assume to be oranges, but they turn out to be mangos, which Noel is not too keen on, but drinks it anyway. I love mangos.
As we walk out of the juice shop, we see a man dressed in strange clothes and carrying an equally strange machine that dispenses a dark brown liquid. As we stand there puzzled, a well dressed Egyptian buys a glass and offers us both a taste. It is very unusual, mildly sweet, a bit like a flat cola drink, with an aniseed taste after swallowing. We quite like it, so the man tells Noel and I to drink the whole glassful, and then buys himself another one. He won’t take any payment, just smiles broadly and walks away. He looked quite prosperous. A refreshing change from the money-hungry tourist hawkers.
The Egyptian drink seller also smiled broadly and motioned in sign language that I didn’t understand. However Noel figures out what he means. The drink is an aid to urination. Probably a herbal drink.
“He won’t take any payment, just smiles broadly and walks away.”
AN EVENING BY THE NILE
Negotiations, Suspicion And A Taxi Ride Through Cairo
Noel again needs to find an ATM machine that dispenses American dollars. We find three machines, but they only give Egyptian pounds. After asking for help, we are directed into a spotless mall and there find a machine that does give American dollars, but is being repaired by a workman. It will be out of order for some time he tells us.
So we go back outside the mall and bargain with a taxi driver to take us back to our hotel. He agrees on £20. But before we leave, the taxi driver has a rather shady looking mate with him who has become aware that Noel needs American dollars. He tells Noel that he knows a money changer who will pay US$100 for £600 Egyptian pounds. I calculate that the commission rate is only 4%. So Noel withdraws £1200 Egyptian pounds from another money machine nearby.
Then we all climb into the battered black and white taxi and drive off to the money changers. Both men are smoking. Both Noel and I feel a bit uneasy. Fortunately there are white-clad tourist police just about everywhere in the tourist areas. I think Egypt could be a harrowing place for overseas tourists otherwise.
The shady friend asks Noel to give him the money now, but Noel refuses. We arrive at the money changers. It turns out to be a back street travel agency. The shady friend does not want Noel or I to go into the shop with him, he just wants to take the money in by himself. We suspect it might be the last we see of him, so we insist we go in too. Finally he says OK, but only one of us.
So Noel goes inside with him and I remain in the back seat of the taxi. I am still somewhat worried and question the driver about his friend. The driver tells me that his friend’s name is Saeed and that his own name is Chabeen. I also note the name of the travel shop.
However, soon both Saeed and Noel came out looking pleased. As Saeed gets back into the taxi he turns and says to me, “You see, I am good man, am I not?”
He wants £50 pounds baksheesh for organising the deal, but Noel only pays him £20. We drop him off into another taxi, and then our driver heads for our hotel. As we drive he asks Noel, “How much baksheesh you pay Saeed?” Noel said £20 pounds. He says, “I need another £10 pounds for going out of my way, so that will be £30 pounds to take you back to your hotel.”
“I have no Egyptian money left. Only US$200.” says Noel.
“You give me US$100 then,” the driver says laughing.
“I have no money.” Noel says.
When we pull up at the hotel, the driver says, “Give me £30 pounds.” Noel hands him £20 pounds. The driver refuses it and makes a big fuss, but Noel is firm and says, “You agreed to take us to the hotel for £20 pounds in the beginning. So finally he accepts the money ungraciously and drives off.
“You see, I am good man, am I not?”
LEAVING CAIRO
A Final Drive To The Airport
While Noel is having a cold shower in our hotel room, the phone rings and we are told that our driver and Nabil have arrived 30 minutes early to take us to the airport to catch our plane to Frankfurt Germany.
Ten minutes later we are again driving through the heavy Cairo traffic to the airport. On the way we stop and take a picture of an impressive 100 year old Indian-styled palace.
“Ten minutes later we are again driving through the heavy Cairo traffic to the airport.”
A FINAL LESSON IN BAKSHEESH
Farewells At Cairo Airport
Our efficient Enco porter, whose services are part of our travel arrangements, meets us at the airport and speedily handles our luggage. Noel gives a reasonably generous tip to Nabil, as is expected and also the driver.
The absolute limit of Egyptian Baksheesh is reached when we go through the baggage X-ray section. A porter standing next to the machine lifts Noel’s case about a foot off the ground and puts it on the conveyer belt, then demands baksheesh.
I think Noel would have liked to punch him on the snorer. He does not pay him anything. Noel does however tip our efficient Enco porter.
“A porter standing next to the machine lifts Noel’s case about a foot off the ground and puts it on the conveyer belt, then demands baksheesh.”
DEPARTURE FOR GERMANY
A Final Evening In Egypt
We have a long wait at the airport, so I update my journal notes while Noel does some exploring. We then both go for a walk around the airport together.
We see a very impressive Saudi Sheik, about 6.2ft tall, walking regally through one of the airport shops, wearing a pure white silken robe and turban, and two of his wives followed, clothed in black.
We are flying to Germany on Lufthansa Airlines. It is a modern clean plane and each seat has a small 6 inch TV in the back of it.
It’s about a 4 hour flight to Frankfurt. We are actually heading away from New Zealand and will need to backtrack tomorrow night. However I am looking forward to visiting Germany and observing the appearance of the German people, and also experiencing a little of their social culture. I find the study of different peoples quite fascinating.
Nice meal on our flight.
“I find the study of different peoples quite fascinating.”
David & Noel Coory · Middle East Trip
June 2005 · Tauranga, New Zealand to Singapore and beyond Redesigned with care · Original travel diary preserved