June 2005 · Middle East Trip
David & Noel Coory's Journey to Egypt
Israel
First Look
Overall Impressions of Egypt
- Ancient wonders standing proudly through millennia.
- Rich history visible in everyday surroundings.
- Chaotic traffic but surprisingly organized movement.
- Warm hospitality despite cultural differences.
- Fascinating blend of old and new.
- Deeply rooted traditions shape daily life.
- Magnificent pyramids inspire awe and curiosity.
- Vibrant street life full of energy.
- Intense desert heat dominates experiences.
- Strong religious and cultural identity.
- Colorful markets and persistent local vendors.
- Extraordinary archaeological treasures everywhere.
- Contrasts between luxury and simplicity.
- Nile River sustains life amid desert.
- Friendly guides enhance cultural understanding.
- Unique architecture reflects ancient civilization.
- Memorable sights at every turn.
- Tourist-focused economy visible throughout.
- Authentic local experiences beyond attractions.
- A captivating and unforgettable destination.
MEETING OUR EGYPTIAN GUIDES
A New Day And New Companions
We awake to clear blue skies and calm air. Noel and I have breakfast in the huge ballroom of the hotel. We are told that this room can seat 800 people. The food is excellent, and a huge choice. Just about every food you can think of. Just help yourself.
ANCIENT EGYPT AWAKENS
Music, Monuments And The Pharaohs
Saha takes us first of all to a small, open air temple site. As we walk in we are met by a team of Egyptian musicians playing pipes and tambourines and little drums. Their music sounds good to my ears, very lively, the sort of happy music I like.
We are first shown some small sphinxes and obelisks and other sculptures of ancient Egyptian rulers.
“Their music sounds good to my ears, very lively, the sort of happy music I like.”
RAMSES THE GREAT
Face To Face With An Ancient Pharaoh
Then we are lead into a nearby building which contains the huge statue of Ramses the Great, one of the most famous of the Egyptian Pharaohs. This statue is just enormous, and the facial features are beautifully carved, as you can see from the close-up photograph below. The statue lies on its back as the legs have been broken off.
STREETS OF OLD CAIRO
A Journey Into Another World
After this, Saha takes us on a driving tour through some of the older parts of Cairo.
The street scenes are amazing to us. It’s like going back 2000 years. Most of the older roads are wide and formed of compacted dry sand. We see flocks of sheeps, being led, (not driven) by their shepherds. Also Middle East sheep with their thick, flobbery tails. These tails are used to store fat and water like a camel’s hump.
There are donkeys everywhere with people riding on them. Just a totally different world from what we are used to. Highly exotic and interesting.
THE PYRAMIDS OF GIZA
Standing Before Egypt’s Ancient Wonders
We see some old dogs lying near the pyramid site in the shade. They look completely worn out by the heat.
THE TOURIST WORKSHOPS
Papyrus, Carpets And Egyptian Craftsmanship
Before visiting the nearby three main pyramids, we are first taken to the inevitable tourist shop-factory. Like at most tourist shops in the Middle East, we are offered free drinks – coffee or a bottle of water. We each accept a welcome bottle of cold water each.
In this place they sell papyrus paintings and make beautiful carpets. But the prices are high. You pay much less on the streets. Most of the carpets are very beautiful. Some of the workers are children. The head man is portly for an Egyptian. Must be prosperous.
THE GREAT PYRAMID
Standing Before An Ancient Wonder
Our next stop is at the main pyramid site. It’s now about midday. The heat is quite intense and the sun reflecting off the light coloured sand is glary. I should have worn my sunglasses. Mohamed our driver remains in his air-conditioned van. Saha pays for our tickets then leads us onto the site for a hot walking tour.
Tourists are forbidden to climb on the pyramid. Besides it’s so steep as to be dangerous. People have been killed falling down the 51 degree angle sides. White uniformed tourist police are everywhere to prevent such things happening, and also to keep the highly aggressive hawkers in line.
This pyramid is said to cover an area of 13 acres. The original polished limestone outside covering of the pyramid has been removed over the centuries, except for the high upper capping. We didn’t go inside the narrow passageway of the pyramid as the cost is high and there is evidently nothing to see at the end but a simple empty burial chamber.
THE GREAT SPHINX
Egypt’s Most Famous Guardian
We next see the Sphinx. It isn’t as big as you might think, but is longer than most people realise. Saha now leaves us, for the cool of the air conditioned van and Noel and I are free to walk around by ourselves.
“It isn’t as big as you might think, but is longer than most people realise.”
AMONG THE CAMELS AND HAWKERS
The Lively Atmosphere Around The Pyramids
A lot of hawkers here want to take us for expensive rides on their camels. Noel has always wanted to sit on a camel. So we negotiate hard to get a reasonable price. The camel kneels down and Noel sits on it and I take his picture.
Evidently the hawker told Noel there wouldn’t be any charge, and then after taking the photo insisted that he pay him. Noel should have realised there would be a catch. Both are getting quite agro, Noel doesn’t stand much nonsense. Then one of the white uniformed tourist police observes what’s happening and comes over and orders the young hawker to back off.
WHERE THE DESERT BEGINS
The Edge Of Civilisation And The Sands Beyond
This Giza pyramid site is on the far edge of the outer irrigated area of Cairo. From here on out it is sheer desert. There is virtually no rain whatever in this area, they rely solely on Nile water irrigation.
STREETS OF CONTRAST
Where Modern Cairo Meets The Ancient World
We then return to the van and are driven around some other interesting and old parts of Cairo. There is quite a contrast, from modern traffic scenes to pure Biblical scenes.
There are black and white taxis everywhere, mostly old battered 1970’s Peugeot 504’s. Lots of dust on the roadsides and at all of the historic sites. We see three big Egyptians riding in the tray of a tiny Hyundai truck. Goats are everywhere, mostly brown and black.
LIFE ALONG THE CANALS
The Waterways Fed By The Nile
We see many irrigation canals full of murky brown water. These are all linked to the Nile. We drive alongside one of these canals for quite a long way and notice that every so often there are little barges, or rafts with a rope going across the canal so that the locals can pull themselves across. Bridges are few and far between.
AN AFTERNOON OF REST
Escaping The Heat At The Resort
Tipping is becoming a major expense on this trip. Porters, drivers, guides, arrangers, all want their five Egyptian pounds which is equivalent to about US$1 or NZ$1.50. We are returned to our hotel about 3 pm. We find a fruit bowl on the table in our room with a note from the hotel manager apologising for our first room being uncleaned.
It is very hot outside. At least 40°C. Not a cloud anywhere. Noel has a swim in the massive swimming pool while I have a nap under the umbrellas at the poolside. I don’t much care for swimming in pools.
Noel and I then walk around the huge complex of this hotel. There are 398 rooms and site is 20 acres in area. Noel has another swim then he dresses and we go into the lobby and send an airmail to the family. Costs us a pricey US$8.
A WALK BEYOND THE HOTEL
Exploring Life On The Outskirts Of Cairo
What a fascinating walk. Old vans drive past us, packed full of people, doors permanently roped open. Ancient horse-drawn carts trip trap along the street. We also see modern cars and donkeys. Old taxis pull up alongside to offer us a ride. Date palms soar upward.
We come across some papyrus paintings for sale priced at US$3. Similar paintings were US$20 in the tourist shop today.
We buy a mango and a rock melon for US$2.50 off an elderly farmer at roadside stall for our evening meal, and also two ice creams from a footpath vendor.
THE PYRAMIDS BY NIGHT
An Evening Of Lights, Music And Ancient Legends
As we leave the pyramids area about 9.30 pm, we are met by another music band. Even better than the one we heard earlier today. The musicians are dressed in ancient Pharaoh-type head dress and white flowing robes and are playing wailing bagpipes, drums and clanging cymbals. I find the whole effect most impressive. Bagpipes are not native to Scotland and are mentioned in the Bible book of Daniel, during the Babylonian empire of King Nebuchadnezzar. Egypt was part of this empire.
David & Noel Coory · Middle East Trip
June 2005 · Tauranga, New Zealand to Singapore and beyond Redesigned with care · Original travel diary preserved