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June 2005 · Middle East Trip

David & Noel Coory's Journey to Israel and Jordan

A travel diary documenting the first leg of an epic Middle East adventure —Lebanon to Israel and Jordan 

Today Tuesday 5th July

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Tomorrow Wednesday 6th July

First Look

Overall Impressions of Jordan

  • Head-covered women.
  • Old traditional families and customs.
  • Very cheap shopping and hundreds of small shops.
  • High value currency, their Dinar is worth more than the US dollar.
  • Mosques everywhere.
  • Jordan Valley border very hot.
  • Arranged marriages.

First Look

Overall Impressions of Israel

  • Palestinian Arabs mostly warm and friendly.
  • Jews paler skinned, mostly arrogant and unfriendly.
  • Hasidim Jews in black suits and top hats, curly locks.
  • Palestinian Arabs oppressed by Jews.
  • Palestinian Arabs forbidden to enter parts of Israel.
  • Giant 12 metre high, 200 km long concrete wall being built by Jews to divide off Arabs.
  • Heaps of garbage and old cars in Palestinian areas.
  • Whole of Jordan Valley hot.
  • Nice fruit in Jericho.

First Look

Overall Impressions of Jerusalem

  • Unsightly black tents and shacks in Bedouin camps on outskirts of Jerusalem.
  • Same junk jewellery sold everywhere.
  • Arab Souk markets everywhere (if you’ve seen ten shops you’ve seen them all).
  • Churches everywhere.
  • Constant mosque calls to prayer and ringing church bells in Jerusalem.
  • Skull caps (kepars) always worn by practising Jews.
  • The sometimes funny, tummy-forward walk of , with their hands behind their backs.
  • Hasidim Jews more cheerful than non-Hasidim Jews.
  • Thistles growing everywhere.
  • Thousands of tomb stones on the sides of the Mount of Olives.
  • Hills and more hills.
  • Impressive night views of city lights.
  • Heavy young military police presence, armed with AK47 type sub-machine guns.
Wednesday 6th July

THE RABBI TOMBS TOUR

Setting Out For Galilee

Very warm last night. Today is our Jewish ‘Rabbi tombs’ tour to Tiberius, and the Sea of Galilee up north. We have breakfast then phone for a cab to take us to the posh, US$500 a night King David hotel to meet our tour bus.

After making the call, we walk out to the front of the hotel to wait for our taxi, but find it already there waiting for us. He also wastes no time in getting us to the King David hotel. But we have to wait half an hour there for our tour bus to arrive.

While we wait, we meet Mike and Angela Wilson who are ‘Torah practising’ (Mike’s words) American Jews. Most people would call them Orthodox Jews. The Torah is the book of laws transcribed by Rabbis over the centuries, based on Old Testament Bible Mosaic law, or the laws given to Moses by God.

Mike is wearing a skull cap, but otherwise normal clothes. Angela is wearing a head scarf. They are also booked on this tour of famous Rabbi’s tombs. Mike and Angela are young and recently married.

Mike is enthusiastic and an interesting young man to speak to. Not at all aloof like most of the Israel Jews. He does not look much like a Jew at all with his fair hair, blue eyes and small nose.

Mike tells me that the skull cap is known to the Jews as a kepar and symbolises being under the jurisdiction of God, I ask him if he wears his kepar back in the States. He said he does wears it, but under an American baseball cap.

He also says that he wears a special undergarment and a prayer ribbon. And in the mornings, when he prays, he ties a scripture box on his head.

Our tour bus turns out to be a plain grey mini van, probably unmarked for security reasons. The van is driven by a single, 29 year old Arab man named Fiad. He is a very nice person. Sitting beside him is our Jewish guide whose name is Iam. Later we find out he has been to New Zealand.

Their are nine of us all up on the tour. Mike and Angela climb in and Noel and I sit right behind them, in the back three seats of the van, the only seats left. I am sitting next to a quiet, single Italian man named Paolo. He tells me he is a medical doctor and likes to study languages and travel.

Another passenger is a quiet, serious and tall Jewish girl whom I never hear speak, and also a quiet Jewish man whose name I did not get either. The other couple in the van is an older, thin, Californian woman, be-jewelled and blonde, with her large, serious, bearded Jewish husband.

“Our tour bus turns out to be a plain grey mini van, probably unmarked for security reasons.”
The plain grey van in which we travel to Galilee.

JOURNEY TO THE SEA OF GALILEE

A Day Among The Rabbis

So off we go. This is an all day trip. These back seats are rather bouncy and uncomfortable on rough sections of the road. We again drive eastward, down from Jerusalem into the hot Jordan valley as we did to the dead sea, but this time we turn northward and pass through Jericho, and on up toward the Galilee area.

The bouncy back seat ride is a bit annoying over some sections. Hot as always outside around Jericho where we stop at a tearooms. But it becomes cooler as we travel northward toward the lake.

Iam our guide speaks to us often in his pleasant cultured voice and explains various things as we pass by. He sometimes speaks of the political situation in Israel. Noel and I wanted a genuine Jewish experience to round out our exposure to Israel, and we receive an overload today.

As mentioned earlier, the focus of our tour are famous Jewish Rabbi tombs around the Lake Galilee region. As we drive north to the Galilee area, the scenery gradually changes from barren desert to trees and lawns. We stop and visit four Rabbi’s tombs altogether.

“As we drive north to the Galilee area, the scenery gradually changes from barren desert to trees and lawns.”
ChatGPT Image Jun 9, 2026, 08_03_55 PM
The Sea (or Lake) of Galilee and town of Tiberius.

VISITING THE RABBI TOMBS

A Window Into Jewish Tradition

The first tomb we stop at, near Tiberius, has separate entrances for men and women. Noel and I are required to wear a paper skull cap in this tomb, but not at the other tombs. A notice on the door forbids women to dance.
There is also a giant chair at this tomb. Noel and I take a turn each. These Rabbi’s tombs are amazingly popular. Each one we stop at, generally has several tourist buses parked outside and a steady stream of Jewish men and women walking into or out of the tombs.

We see books for sale at each tomb, containing the particular Rabbi’s teachings. Like all books published in this part of the world, the back cover is the front of the book. They are therefore displayed back cover outward, and the spine on the right.

“Noel and I are required to wear a paper skull cap in this tomb, but not at the other tombs.”
Our first rabbi’s tomb – dancing women forbidden.
The hats we are asked to wear.
The giant chair.
Noel’s turn.
Rabbi’s writings – back cover is front of book.

PRAYER AT THE RABBI TOMBS

Observing Jewish Worship

Most of these tombs, which are like small church buildings are full of Jewish Hasidim men in black dress suits and hats, praying aloud and rocking as they pray.

Sometimes, when there are ten or more, they commence a group prayer, with loud Amen’s throughout.

I ask Angela why the Jewish men rock when they pray. She says it’s because it says in the Psalms that “even my bones praise thee.” So moving brings the bones into play.
I ask Mike if Jews pray only written prayers. Or do they make up their own personal prayers. He tells me they only pray written prayers from the books.
“Sometimes, when there are ten or more, they commence a group prayer, with loud Amen’s throughout.”
These men are rocking as they read and pray.
Typical sight in the tombs.

CONVERSATIONS WITH MIKE WILSON

Learning About Jewish Beliefs

As I converse with Mike Wilson throughout the tour, I become amazed at how controlled Jewish thought is by various teachings of famous Rabbi’s throughout the ages, even though as Mike admits, they contradict one another in their teachings.

Jews call the Messiah, or Jesus, Meshackh (the ckh is a guttural, throaty sound). Mike explains that Jesus (or Yeshua as he pronounces it) could not be Meshackh as he rebelled against Rabbi authority and was executed us a rebel. He tells me it would be unthinkable for a Jew to read the New Testament.

Mike is a cheerful young American and not ashamed of his Jewishness. He is friendly, but by and large we have not found the Jews to be friendly like the Arabs. The Lebanese seemed especially friendly, but we might have been biased.

At another tomb, there are swarms of German like wasps hanging around a water pipe. I notice also at this tomb that a Hasidim Jew has fallen asleep over his holy book, while standing up.

“He is a cheerful young American and not ashamed of his Jewishness.”
The group we travel with: L to R: Angela (Mike’s Italian wife), the quiet Jewish man, the tall, quiet, Jewish girl, the Italian doctor Paolo, the be-jewelled, blonde Californian woman with her serious, bearded, Jewish husband, Iam our Jewish guide and Mike Wilson the young American Jew.
A Hasidim Jew.

A CONVERSATION WITH A RABBI

Seeking Answers

Here Mike introduces me to a youngish New York Jewish Rabbi who is famed for his learning. Although obviously intelligent, he does not seem to have any more light than Mike, and kept quoting famous Rabbi’s sayings in answer to my questions.

He also tells me that Jesus was a rebel and put to death for disobeying the Jerusalem Rabbis of his day.

“He also tells me that Jesus was a rebel and put to death for disobeying the Jerusalem Rabbis of his day.”

CUSTOMS AND OBSERVATIONS AT THE RABBI TOMBS

Reflections On Jewish Traditions

As tourists go into these tombs, there is a little fitment on the doorways. The Jews rub it, then kiss their hand. This custom seems somewhat similar to the Catholic one of dipping the fingers in holy water entering a church and making the sign of the cross.

I ask one of the Jews what it means. He says it is a reminder of the Passover blood and the time of Passover when the blood of a lamb is smeared on the door posts of the houses. Back in the van, I say to Mike that what the Jewish people need is a modern prophet. He smiles and nods, seeming to agree, but does not say anything.

As we are leaving this Tomb, our van accidentally reverses into a parked car. It doesn’t appear to damage it, although our driver does not bother to get out to have a proper look. Probably another reason why the van is not sign written.

At the final tomb we visit, the most crowded of all, Hasidim Jews are smoking. This is unexpected to me and looks rather odd.

“As we are leaving this Tomb, our van accidentally reverses into a parked car.”
The reminder of the Passover blood on the doorway.
A Hasidim Jew smoking.

HASIDIC MUSIC AND DANCING

A Joyful Scene Outside The Tomb

As we tour this hillside tomb, we hear the sound of singing and dancing in the street further down the hill. Noel and I have become separated in the crowd, but we both eventually make our way down for a look.
Some Hasidim Jews are playing live gypsy-type music and singing and dancing, twirling and hopping on their feet. Jewish Tomb visitors are gathered around watching. One thin old Jewish man dances non-stop for several minutes, jumping up and down in the air, and rotating, seemingly tireless.
I enjoy the fast moving, lively gypsy type music and made a short video recording of it on my camera. I wish I had made it a little longer. You may be able to see it and hear the music by turning on your speakers and clicking this link.
Noel takes the picture below of some of the Tomb visitors walking down to watch these Jewish dancing men.
“Some Hasidim Jews are playing live gypsy-type music and singing and dancing, twirling and hopping on their feet.”

AN EXTRAORDINARY COINCIDENCE

A Familiar Face In A Jerusalem Crowd

An interesting thing happens in connection with this picture. After we get back to New Zealand, I am showing some of our Middle East photos in a Power Point display to an interested group at church one evening. A week earlier I had casually invited an older Jewish convert from the Greerton branch of our church, which meet in the same building, to come along. I thought he might be interested, and he does come. His name is Brion Bott, age about 70.
As I project this particular photo onto the wall, he suddenly leaps up and commands, “Go back, go back!” (I had gone on to the next photo.) So I go back to this photo. He walks up to the image on the wall and points to the girl standing in the photo (I’ve marked her below), and exclaims emotionally, “That’s my daughter!”
Evidently Brion’s marriage had broken up some twenty years ago, and he hadn’t seen his daughter since. He had heard however from one of his sons that she was in Israel. On thinking about this later, I felt it was more than a coincidence. I emailed him a copy of the photo.

He told me just recently that his daughter has since got in touch with him. He emailed her the picture also and it is definitely her. Brion’s classic Jewish side profile photo can be found on the Sunday 3rd . He is a pure descendant of the priestly line of Aaron, the brother of Moses.

“That’s my daughter!”
ChatGPT Image Jun 9, 2026, 08_53_22 PM
Photo of Brion Bott’s daughter (arrow).

ALONG THE SHORES OF GALILEE

At The Jordan River

We now tour a little around the Lake Galilee area. There are lots of Australian type gum trees planted around here. Jesus spent most of his time in Galilee. This hillside below was where Jesus gave his famous Sermon on the Mount. Matthew Chap 5.

We now finally get to see the Jordan River. There were barbed wire barriers blocking access all the way up from Jericho. At one place we stop at my request and walk alongside the Jordan River. We can see large carp swimming lazily in the water.
“At one place we stop at my request and walk alongside the Jordan River.”
Sermon on the Mount site.
Barbed wire barriers blocking access to the Jordan (Israel border).
The Jordan River in Galilee area.

SAFED – THE CITY OF JEWISH MYSTICISM

High Above The Sea Of Galilee

At lunch time we visit Safed, a town high on a mountain top, north of Lake Galilee. Evidently this is a centre of Jewish spirituality and the highest town in all Israel. Even young teenagers here seem reverent and wear skull caps.

There is a famous Jewish market here and a lot of weaving goes on. I see Mike trying on a US$500 hand-made Jewish shawl.

“I see Mike trying on a US$500 hand-made Jewish shawl.”
ChatGPT Image Jun 9, 2026, 08_55_43 PM
Even the street kids wear skull caps in Safed.

INSIDE A JEWISH SYNAGOGUE

A First Glimpse Of Jewish Worship

Here in Safed we are also taken inside a Jewish synagogue. This is the first time Noel or I have ever seen inside one. There are some photos below. There are just seats surrounding a small podium containing Jewish scrolls.
“There are just seats surrounding a small podium containing Jewish scrolls.”
Inside the Jewish synagogue.
The synagogue podium with Torah scrolls.

LUNCH IN SAFED

Falafel In The Mountains

For lunch we have a large, freshly squeezed orange juice each – three oranges per glass, and Israel’s favourite take-away food, a large falafel, chock full of veges which.
As mentioned before, falafel is a pita bread roll crammed full of vegetables, round fried chickpea balls and onion with hummus sauce as a dressing. Hummus sauce is also made from chickpeas. Very tasty and filling and also healthy.

Safed is nice and cool because of its high mountain top location. It is also rather like a Mediterranean town with its narrow paving stone back streets and alleys.

While the others carry on shopping, Noel and I go for a walk around Safed. Noel again says it reminds him of an Italian village.

“Safed is nice and cool because of its high mountain top location.”
Lunch at Safed.
Falafel and ‘three orange’ freshly squeezed drink.
Hand loom at Safed.
Mike trying on a US$500 hand made Jewish shawl.
Safed, like an Italian village.
Outlook from Safed, the highest town in Israel.

RETURN TO JERUSALEM

Reflections On A Week In Israel

We then gather back at the van and begin the two and a half hour long drive back to our hotel. It is dark when we arrive.

A very interesting day. It astonishes me the outlook on life that the Jewish people have, and the reverence they show to their Rabbi’s. They mostly exist in spiritual darkness because they have not had a prophet that they recognise as a prophet, since Malachi, the last prophet of the Old Testament who lived around 440 BC.

This is our last night in Israel. It has been a most stimulating week. Tomorrow we return to Jordan and then fly out to Cairo in Egypt.

“A very interesting day.”

David & Noel Coory · Middle East Trip

June 2005  ·  Tauranga, New Zealand to Singapore and beyond Redesigned with care · Original travel diary preserved