February 2005 · Tongariro Volcano Hike
David & Noel Coory's Journey to Tongariro Volcano Hike
First Look
Overall Impressions of THE WHOLE HIKE
- Strenuous, hot, climbing up barren steep rock and scoria mountain slopes with a pack.
- Often getting puffed and having to pause to regain breath.
- Sweating.
- Drinking huge amounts of water
- Teeming insect life all along the tracks.
- Hot sun and welcome cooling breezes.
- Looming, high, barren mountains.
- Dramatic volcanic craters.
- Dramatic moonscape’s, devoid of all plant life.
- Flat, barren, brown, desert-like plains devoid of plant life.
- Rugged lava and more lava.
- Occasional delightful patches of native bush.
- Cheerful song of sky larks in the sky.
- Unusual alpine plant life.
- Large circular areas of plants that look as if they were planted by a landscape gardener.
- German accents everywhere, even a German hut warden.
- Young girl trampers, hiking alone.
- Noise of sleepers turning at night in the huts on creaky, crinkly, plastic-covered mattresses.
- Hordes of exhausted hikers on the popular Tongariro Crossing section of the walk.
- Seemingly endless steep rock and scoria slopes when climbing Mt Ngauruhoe
- Satisfaction of climbing a real 2.4 km 7500 ft high mountain.
- Yuk tasting water from volcanic streams.
- Welcome sight of a hut after a long day’s walk
- Marked change in temperature and climate between top and bottom of Mt Ngauruhoe.
A RESTLESS NIGHT IN THE HUT
Mosquitoes, Mountain Noises And Broken Sleep
I awoke a lot last night, due mostly I think, to the tossing and turning of many of the other sleepers. Also the whine of a mosquito didn’t help. Raymond said he thought only male mosquitoes whined, and that they didn’t bite, only the females. I wanted to believe this, but I’m not sure that it’s true. I’ve never heard it before. I must find out for sure.
(Raymond later emailed me with this note: “Regarding mosquito humming, I was wrong. I can’t find any mention of there being a difference between males and females. In fact the male uses the female’s whine to locate her.”)
This hut also made loud popping noises during the night. It must be something to do with the wood contracting when cooling, or perhaps expanding due to moisture build up in the air from the sleepers and damp night air.
“This hut also made loud popping noises during the night.”
SETTING OFF FOR THE DAY
A Farmer, An All Black Jersey And Mountain Ambitions
Wayne, the big Kiwi farmer is next to me in his All Black jersey as we both clean our teeth outside in the morning sunshine at the tub. He tells me he had a difficult time sleeping in the rather small bunk last night. He does not look the best this morning.
I suggest to Wayne that he might find his All Black jersey a bit hot in the sun. But he quickly defends it saying that he wears it everywhere. He seems very proud of it. Possibly he has been an all Black. He does look vaguely familiar, and has the build.
He later announces he is going to leave on the walk early, before the two girls, to “get his second wind” on the track as he puts it. He is so large, I suspect that he may fear the girls will show him up on the mountain climbs. They look quite fit with their slim figures. He shortly afterward strides off alone with a small pack on his back.
“He shortly afterward strides off alone with a small pack on his back.”
THE JOURNEY HOME BEGINS
Leaving The Hut For Whakapapa Village
Before Raymond and I leave, we meet a nice mature couple from Katikati who plan to do the Tongariro crossing walk today. Eva and her girl friend depart with big smiles.
Not long afterward, Raymond and I shoulder our packs and start on our three-hour walk back to Whakapapa village. It is warm and sunny, and no win, the mountains appeared to be blocking it.
This track is narrow and in poor condition. It does not seem to be used much. In fact we do not see anybody else on it at all.
“This track is narrow and in poor condition. It does not seem to be used much.”
THROUGH THE DRY RIVER BEDS
A Rugged Route Across The Volcanic Landscape
We cross many dry stony river beds with large rounded rocks. Some of them are unusual shapes. We see one that looks like a pig, and just in front of it, one that looks like a dog.
We have to climb down into these river beds and back up out of them again. Many of the river beds have steep banks.
“We have to climb down into these river beds and back up out of them again.”
David & Noel Coory · Tongariro Volcano Hike
February 2005 ·
Tongariro Volcano Hike For 5 Days · Original travel diary preserved